From One Polar Circle to Another… After completing the Northwest Passage in 2015 under the helm of its first owner, Jimmy Cornell, the Garcia Exploration No. 1 has now taken its current owner, Jan Van Opstal, to Antarctica! He shares with us the story of this remarkable journey.
From Dream to Exploration
“I found myself with more time to sail. Like many sailors, I devoured tales of extreme voyages, but the idea of sailing to Antarctica myself had never crossed my mind… not yet! In fact, I caught the bug in two stages. First, I was fortunate enough to acquire the Exploration 45 by Jimmy Cornell (built by Garcia Yachts)—an aluminum, fully-equipped yacht designed by Cornell himself, the same vessel he used to navigate the Northwest Passage.
A boat without limits sparks ideas! I got to know BalthazaR on two voyages through Northern Europe, venturing beyond the Arctic Circle. Was I already hooked? I had to find out.
I then embarked in Ushuaia aboard Vaihéré, captained by Éric Dupuis—certainly one of the best sailors to explore the White Continent. The magic happened! As the Antarctic coast faded into the horizon, I was already planning my return.
An Ambitious Project
Preparing BalthazaR during the COVID lockdown and then bringing her to Tierra del Fuego via the Roaring Forties and the Furious Fifties was a long process! In mid-January, we finally left Ushuaia after waiting eight days for a favorable weather window. We were a crew of four friends—Raphaël, Pierrick, myself (Jan), and Ryan—all experienced, each skilled in complementary areas. A solid team that gave me peace of mind, even though my role required me to stay constantly alert and vigilant.
The Drake Passage: A Legendary Crossing
A brief stop in Puerto Toro (36 inhabitants), the world’s southernmost settlement. It took us half a day to round Cape Horn, skirting the Wollaston Archipelago, gleaming in the sunlight. From there, we headed ever southward—four days across the infamous Drake Passage, whose reputation needs no introduction. Our course was set directly toward the Melchior Archipelago, sailing under two reefs, switching between solent, staysail, and engine—there was no time to linger and risk encountering the next storm.
Approaching Antarctica
At 61° South, Cape petrels joined the albatrosses, giant petrels, and storm petrels that had been escorting us since our departure. They signaled our entry into the Antarctic Convergence Zone. Temperatures dropped, and thick fog set in.
About 100 miles from our destination, the radar picked up the first iceberg. We passed it in the mist—both breathtaking and menacing.
The smaller “growlers” that break off from icebergs are not detected by radar. We only saw them at the last moment in the fog, a major risk, since even a modest 10×10-meter chunk of ice weighs over 500 tons—a stark contrast to BalthazaR’s 18 tons. We maintained constant watch during daylight and doubled our vigilance through the brief hours of darkness.
Anchoring in Melchior: A Frozen Sanctuary
As we neared Melchior, the sun broke through once more. We marveled at the countless icebergs, their shades ranging from pure white to sky blue.
The first humpback whales greeted us, slowly surfacing through a krill swarm, while penguins swam circles around them. Soon, terns, gulls, and cormorants made their appearance.
The Melchior Archipelago—nestled between Eta and Omega Islands—offers one of the safest anchorages in the Antarctic Peninsula, but digital charts here are unreliable, off by over 400 meters. According to our navigation screen, our route seemed to climb the islands’ hills! Thankfully, cross-checking with tracks shared by previous explorers confirmed that we were indeed on the right course.
Precision Navigation in Antarctica
A crucial lesson: Never navigate here in poor visibility and never without reliable tracks. Another essential practice is relying on hand-drawn sketches—detailed notes on how to enter anchorages and secure the boat safely.
And so, I was back in Antarctica! In mere seconds, memories of the four years of preparation flashed through my mind. Then, as quickly as they came, they vanished—it was time to fully embrace my return to this White Paradise.
Three Weeks of Total Immersion
For my crewmates, it was a first-time discovery, the realization of a dream. We spent three incredible weeks, alternating between sunny days and stormy weather.
Most of the time, we motored due to lack of wind. Otherwise, we remained anchored, waiting for storms to pass.
The landscapes were extraordinary—a world where towering mountains plunge into the sea.
We marveled at:
- The Mont Français (2,865m on Anvers Island)
- The dramatic peaks of the Lemaire Channel
- Countless crevassed glaciers, calving into the ocean
- Ice-covered plains, tinged red, yellow, or green by microalgae
- Granite archipelagos, perfect for safe anchoring (Pléneau, Argentine Islands…)
With no buoys, lighthouses, or beacons, navigation relied entirely on instinct and experience. Meanwhile, enormous icebergs of all shapes and sizes drifted with the currents or lay stranded on the seafloor.
An Abundant & Curious Wildlife
Flora here is scarce, but wildlife is everywhere—and most remarkably, animals show no fear of humans.
Humpback whales surfaced near our boat, sometimes curiously rubbing against our hull. Were they mistaking us for a fellow whale?
Some performed spectacular breaches, launching half their bodies out of the water.
On land, we visited penguin colonies—Gentoo, Chinstrap, and Adélie—where parents guarded their chicks, ever watchful of skuas lurking nearby. Seals were common—Weddell, Crabeater, and Elephant seals—lounging lazily unless disturbed. But we kept our distance from leopard seals and fur seals, known for their unpredictable behavior. These animals may be awkward on land, but in the water, they move like torpedoes.
Protecting Antarctica: Between Restrictions & Adaptation
The threat of avian flu in Bird Island (South Georgia) has led to strict protocols for visitors:
- Observing bird behavior before landing
- Rinsing boots & gear between each landing
- Using a disinfecting footbath aboard the boat
Scientific bases have taken varying approaches:
- Some have closed to visitors entirely
- Others allow boats to dock but not enter
- A few, like the Spanish and Ukrainian bases, continue to welcome sailors
The British base at Port Lockroy, once open to visitors, is now closed—but its representatives visit boats, offering:
- Mail service (the southernmost post office in the world)
- Souvenirs, including the legendary Shackleton whiskey, recreated from a bottle found at his 1907 Antarctic base.
To Be Continued…
These first weeks in Antarctica have been an intense and immersive experience. But the adventure is far from over… In the next chapter, we continue our journey deeper into the Antarctic Peninsula, uncovering even more breathtaking landscapes and unforgettable moments. Stay tuned for the next stage of this timeless expedition!
